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Taste Kenya

Maize porridge firm enough to hold a scoop of greens. Kenyan everyday food is ugali, sukuma wiki and a stew, with a coastal Swahili pantry that coconut and spice made different.

Ugali is maize meal stirred with water until it pulls from the sides of the pot — a stiff porridge you tear, not a polenta you plate. Sukuma wiki is collard greens fried with onion and tomato, 'to stretch the week', eaten beside the ugali. Nyama choma is grilled meat, usually goat or beef, with salt and a hot fire. Coastal Mombasa and Lamu cook pilau, coconut fish and mandazi; Luo lakeside kitchens fry tilapia; Kikuyu irio mashes maize, beans and potato. Chapati, a pan bread from Indian presence, is now Kenyan as well. The tourist 'safari grill' is a sideshow to the ugali pot.

6 recipes · 1 cuisine

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Food history

Highland farming, pastoral meat, Great Lakes fish and a Swahili coast shaped by Arab, Persian and Indian Ocean trade. Maize arrived from the Americas and became the staple ugali; older millets did not vanish everywhere. British colonial cash-cropping changed land and diets; Indian railway labour left chapati, chai and samosa in the towns. Sukuma wiki as a named everyday green is modern urban Kenyan as much as village. Independence did not freeze a national dish. Naming inland maize versus coastal coconut is more honest than a single 'East African stew'.

Common ingredients

Techniques

  • ugali stirring
  • greens sauteing
  • grilling nyama choma
  • pilau spicing
  • chapati rolling

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