Hungarian

Magyar konyha

Paprika-red stews built on onions and lard, soured with cream, served with pinched pasta or fried dough, finished with Habsburg pastry.

Magyar herders cooked meat in cauldrons on the plain; gulyás still carries their name. The Ottomans brought peppers and the Habsburgs brought pastry, and by the 19th century Szeged and Kalocsa were breeding the sweet paprika that made the cuisine recognisable. Budapest's cafés and Gundel's restaurant polished it for Europe. The 20th century's shortages fixed lecsó, lángos and stuffed cabbage as the food everyone could afford and still wanted.

The base is always the same: onion cooked slow in lard, pulled off the heat, dusted with paprika. From there the dish is defined by its liquid and thickener: broth for gulyás, almost none for pörkölt, sour cream for paprikás. Caraway, garlic, green pepper and tomato appear constantly. Heat comes from the table, in a jar of hot paprika paste, not from the pot. Pastry is layered, caramelised and unapologetic.

Countries and regions

Great Hungarian Plain · Transdanubia · Budapest · Northern Hungary

Dishes 6

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