Romanian

Ottoman suzerainty gave Wallachia and Moldavia stuffed vegetables, meatballs, grilled minced meat and the word ciorbă. Orthodox fasting made beans, greens and pickles essential. Maize arrived in the 17th century and became mămăligă, untaxed and life-saving. Habsburg Transylvania added paprika, schnitzel and strudel. The communist decades of shortage faded regional cooking; since 1990 it has returned, along with pride in the Christmas pig and the grandmother's sarmale.

Sour is the dominant note, from fermented bran, pickled cabbage, lemon and sour cream. Pork and smoked pork fat flavour vegetable dishes. Dill, lovage, summer savory, garlic and parsley season rather than spice; chilli appears whole on the side. Polenta substitutes for bread at the table. Cheeses are white, salty and usually from sheep. Desserts are fried, cheese-based or layered with walnuts and jam, and plum brandy opens the meal.