Pulse

Soybeans

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Also called dried soybeans, baektae

Dried beige soybeans, baektae, the raw pulse behind tofu, doenjang and, when soaked, boiled and blended, the milky broth of kongguksu. They are firmer and oilier than most kitchen beans.

Origin

East Asia, where the plant was domesticated and then processed into almost every savoury staple. Dried whole beans are less common on Western lists than the foods made from them.

Flavour

Beany, nutty and creamy once blended. Undercooked soybeans taste grassy and are hard on the stomach. The milk should taste clean, not sour or raw.

How to use it

Soak overnight in plenty of water — they swell. Boil in fresh water until a bean mashes easily, skimming foam. For kongguksu, blend the hot beans with cold water, then strain through a cloth, squeezing out a white milk; chill it thoroughly and season with salt just before serving over noodles. Do not under-boil and trust the blender to fix raw beans. Fresh green edamame are the same species at another stage and do not substitute here. If you are cooking soybeans as a pot bean, give them time and salt late.

Storage

Dry pantry, airtight. Old soybeans take hours and may stay chalky.

Recipes using it

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