Spice
Asafoetida
हींग
Also called hing, perungayam, devil's dung, Ferula assa-foetida
The dried resin of a giant fennel-like plant, sold in India mostly as a yellow powder that has been cut with flour and gum so it can be measured. A pinch goes into hot oil at the start or end of a dish.
Origin
The plant grows wild in Iran and Afghanistan, which still supply most of the resin. India is the main buyer and has only recently started growing it. Jain and some Hindu cooks use it in place of onion and garlic.
Flavour
Raw it smells of sulphur and old garlic, which is why it lives in a tight tin. Cooked for a few seconds in fat it turns savoury and leek-like and rounds out lentils and vegetables.
How to use it
Add a pinch to hot ghee or oil with mustard seeds and curry leaves, then pour the tempering into sambar, dal or rasam. Do not sprinkle it raw on finished food.
Storage
Keep it in its own sealed tin, inside a second jar if you can, or the whole cupboard will smell of it. It lasts a year or more. Most compounded hing contains wheat flour; buy a rice-flour blend if you need it gluten-free.
