Pizza mastunicola

Naples' pizza from before the tomato: a white base dressed with lard, grated pecorino, basil and black pepper.

Recipe by I Want Some Food · Reviewed by the editorial kitchen.

Start cooking
Measurement system
Prep
25 min
Cook
10 min
Rest
8 hr
Total
8 hr 35 min
Difficulty
Medium
Spice
No chilli
Cost
Cheap nightUnder $8 USD · indicative, not a store price
Pizza mastunicola

About

Pizza mastunicola is the pizza Naples ate before tomatoes arrived: a white base dressed with lard, grated pecorino, fresh basil and black pepper. The name comes from the Neapolitan dialect word for basil. Everything is spread on raw: a thin layer of soft pork lard, called sugna in Naples, pushed over the dough with the fingertips, then a generous snow of pecorino, torn basil leaves and pepper. In the oven the lard melts into the dough and fries the rim, the cheese browns, and the basil wilts and perfumes everything. Use lard that is fresh and mild-smelling, and grate the pecorino finely so it melts rather than burns. Done is a crisp-rimmed, savoury pizza that tastes of pork fat, sharp sheep's cheese and basil, simple and rich at once.

What you'll need

8 ingredients. Tap each one once it's out on the bench.

0 of 8 ready
2 servings
  • Dough
  • Topping

Ingredients

Dough

Topping

Scaling multiplies the written quantities. Baking still prefers a scale.

Steps

  1. Step 1

    Dissolve the yeast in the water, mix in the flour, then the salt, and knead until smooth. Cover and rise 2 hours, then divide into two balls and rise 6 hours more, or 24 hours in the fridge.

    15 min

  2. Step 2

    Heat the oven to its highest setting with a steel or upturned tray inside for 40 minutes.

    40 min280°C

  3. Step 3

    Press each ball out from the centre with your fingers, leaving a thicker rim. Spread the lard thinly over the base and rim with your fingertips, scatter the pecorino, tear over the basil and grind on plenty of pepper.

    5 min

  4. Step 4

    Bake until the rim is golden and blistered and the cheese is lightly browned, 6–9 minutes at home, about 90 seconds in a wood oven.

    9 min

Nutrition

Per serving · estimate

Calories
687 kcal
Protein
25.9 g
Carbs
118.3 g
Fat
10.4 g
Saturated fat
5.6 g
Fibre
4.7 g
Sugar
1.2 g
Sodium
2290 mg

Calculated from canonical ingredient data (USDA FoodData Central averages and equivalent published tables). Estimates only.

Allergens

Informational only. Not a medical guarantee. Cross-contamination happens in real kitchens.

  • Wheat
  • Milk
  • Nut-free

Adapt this recipe

The original recipe stays as it is. Personal versions are labelled. Serving changes are simple maths.

Adaptations · 0 / 15 used. Resets 10 November.

Substitutions

  • Pecorino → Grated caciocavallo

    Another cheese of old Neapolitan pizza; milder than pecorino.

Tips

  • Put half the basil on after baking if you like it fresh and green.
  • Use a mild, clean-smelling lard from a good butcher.

History & culture

In Naples it is a pizza of history and curiosity, offered by pizzerias that care about the city's tradition, and many pizzaioli today add a little smoked provola. Neapolitans still use lard in their baking, in taralli and casatiello, so its taste on a pizza is familiar rather than strange.

Before the tomato became common in Neapolitan cooking in the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries, pizza was dressed with what the poor had: lard, garlic, hard cheese and herbs. Mastunicola is usually named as the oldest of these toppings. The tomato pizzas of Naples, marinara and margherita, came later.

Traditional — Lard, pecorino, basil and black pepper on a white base, as before the tomato.

Provenance: Editorial adaptation.

Questions about this recipe

Answers taken from this dish's times, amounts, swaps and tips.

How long does Pizza mastunicola take?

8 hr 35 min all in — 25 min prep, 10 min cook, 8 hr rest. Cook and rest follow the method. Leftover storage and optional extra waits are not included.

How many does it serve?

The recipe is written for 2 pizzas. Scale the ingredient list on the page if you are cooking for a different number.

How hard is it?

Medium.

How spicy is it?

No chilli.

What allergens should I watch?

This recipe is labelled for Wheat, Milk. Labels are informational — check the packets in your kitchen. This is not medical advice.

Does it fit a diet?

The published recipe is labelled Nut-free.

6 more questions
What does it cost to cook?

Cheap night — about Under $8 USD, as a grocery budget for this recipe, not a restaurant price.

What equipment do I need?

Mixing bowl, Oven, Baking tray.

How much salt do I put in?

The recipe lists Salt at 8 g.

What can I use instead?

Pecorino → Grated caciocavallo. Another cheese of old Neapolitan pizza; milder than pecorino.

Any tips from this recipe?

Put half the basil on after baking if you like it fresh and green. Use a mild, clean-smelling lard from a good butcher.

Can I use an air fryer?

This method is not written for an air fryer. The core technique on the page still applies.

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