Spice
Mustard seeds
Also called black mustard seeds, rai
Whole brassica seeds — usually brown or black rai — that crackle at the start of a South Indian tadka. This is not prepared mustard from a jar, and not mustard powder. Masala dosa and Kerala fish curry want the pop in hot oil, then the rest of the pot.
Origin
Mustard grew around the Mediterranean and South Asia; the tempering habit is South Asian. Black and brown seeds are pungent; yellow seeds are milder.
Flavour
Nutty and toasty once they pop; pungent if you crush them raw. Burnt seeds taste acrid and should not be stirred through as if nothing happened.
How to use it
Heat oil or coconut oil until a test seed sizzles, add the rest, and stand back — they jump. When most have popped and turned grey, add curry leaves or chilli at once so they do not scorch. That tadka goes into dosa potato or a fish curry. A spoon of Dijon is vinegar and gums, not this nutty oil. Yellow seeds can stand in; they are gentler.
Storage
Airtight jar. Whole seeds keep for years. If they will not pop, they are too old. Keep them away from the wet mustard spoon.
Recipes using it
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