Hünkâr beğendi
Slow-cooked lamb with tomato and green pepper, spooned onto a purée of flame-charred aubergine beaten into béchamel with cheese.
Recipe by I Want Some Food · Reviewed by the editorial kitchen.
- Prep
- 30 min
- Cook
- 1 hr 50 min
- Rest
- None
- Total
- 2 hr 20 min
- Difficulty
- Medium
- Spice
- No chilli
- Cost
- A bit special$16–28 USD · indicative, not a store price
About
Hünkâr beğendi is two dishes on one plate. The first is a lamb stew, tas kebabı, cooked slowly with onion, tomato and green pepper until the meat is soft and the sauce is thick. The second is beğendi, a purée of aubergines charred over an open flame and beaten into a butter-and-flour white sauce with a little grated cheese. The smoke is the whole point: char the aubergines until the skins are black and collapsed, or the purée tastes of nothing. Spread the beğendi on the plate, leave a well in the middle and spoon the lamb into it.
What you'll need
20 ingredients. Tap each one once it's out on the bench.
- Lamb
- Beğendi
Ingredients
Lamb
- Lamb, shoulder or neck, in 3 cm cubes700 g
- Olive oil30 ml
- Butter20 g
- Onion, chopped2 medium
- Garlic, chopped3 clove
- Tomato purée, tomato paste15 ml
- Tomato, grated, skins discarded2 medium
- Green pepper, long sivri peppers, sliced2
- Salt7.4 ml
- Black pepper4.9 ml
- Water, hot500 ml
Beğendi
- Eggplant, about 3 globe or 5 long slender aubergines1 kg
- Lemon juice, in a bowl of cold water15 ml
- Butter50 g
- Wheat flour44 ml
- Milk, whole, warmed500 ml
- Melting cheese, kaşar or another mild hard cheese, grated80 g
- Nutmeg1 pinch
- Salt4.9 ml
- Parsley, chopped, to finish (optional)1 handful
Scaling multiplies the written quantities. Baking still prefers a scale.
Steps
Step 1
Heat the oil and butter in a heavy pot and brown the lamb in two batches over high heat, about 4 minutes a batch. Return all the meat, add the onion and cook 8 minutes until soft.
16 min
Step 2
Add the garlic and tomato paste and fry for a minute, then the grated tomato, peppers, salt and pepper. Pour in hot water just to cover, put the lid on and simmer gently for 1½ hours, until the lamb is tender and the sauce is thick. Uncover for the last 15 minutes if it is thin.
95 min
Step 3
While the lamb cooks, char the aubergines directly over a gas flame, turning with tongs, for 12 to 15 minutes until the skins are black all over and the flesh has collapsed. Without gas, put them under the hottest grill for about 30 minutes, turning, or on a barbecue.
15 min
Tip: Prick each aubergine once with a knife first so it cannot burst.
Step 4
Put them in a bowl, cover for 5 minutes, then peel off the skin and drop the flesh into the lemon water for 5 minutes to keep it pale. Squeeze it dry in your hands and chop it to a rough paste.
12 min
Step 5
Melt the butter in a saucepan, stir in the flour and cook for 2 minutes without colouring. Whisk in the warm milk a little at a time and simmer 5 minutes until thick. Add the aubergine and beat over low heat for 5 minutes until smooth, then stir in the cheese, nutmeg and salt.
15 min
Step 6
Spread the beğendi on warm plates, make a well in the centre and spoon in the lamb and its sauce. Scatter with parsley and serve at once.
3 min
Nutrition
Per serving · estimate
- Calories
- 978 kcal
- Protein
- 58.2 g
- Carbs
- 39.9 g
- Fat
- 66.4 g
- Saturated fat
- 30.6 g
- Fibre
- 10.2 g
- Sugar
- 21.2 g
- Sodium
- 1862 mg
Calculated from canonical ingredient data (USDA FoodData Central averages and equivalent published tables). Estimates only.
Allergens
Informational only. Not a medical guarantee. Cross-contamination happens in real kitchens.
- Milk
- Wheat
- Nut-free
Adapt this recipe
The original recipe stays as it is. Personal versions are labelled. Serving changes are simple maths.
Adaptations · 0 / 15 used. Resets 12 November.
Substitutions
Kaşar cheese → Young cheddar, gruyère or parmesan
Parmesan is much saltier; cut the salt in the beğendi by half.
Tips
- The beğendi thickens as it stands. Loosen it with a splash of warm milk just before serving.
- The lamb is better made a day ahead. The beğendi is best made fresh.
- Beef chuck or shin works in place of lamb, with an extra half hour of simmering.
History & culture
This is a dish of old Istanbul restaurants, the lokantas that cook for lunch on steam tables, and of home kitchens when the guests are worth the trouble. It is eaten in the colder months, with plain rice pilaf if anyone is still hungry. Aubergine is a Turkish obsession, and this is it in formal dress.
The name means 'the sultan liked it'. The story goes that it was first made in 1869 for Empress Eugénie of France, visiting Sultan Abdülaziz, and that she asked for the recipe. A French-style white sauce fits a 19th-century palace with French-leaning tastes, but smoked aubergine purées were in Ottoman cooking long before that visit.
Traditional — Turkish cooks use the long, slender aubergines called kemer patlıcan, which have fewer seeds; large globe aubergines work. Kaşar is a mild semi-hard cheese; young cheddar or gruyère are close enough.
Provenance: Editorial adaptation.
Questions about this recipe
Answers taken from this dish's times, amounts, swaps and tips.
How long does Hünkâr beğendi take?
2 hr 20 min all in — 30 min prep, 1 hr 50 min cook. Cook and rest follow the method. Leftover storage and optional extra waits are not included.
How many does it serve?
The recipe is written for 4 plates. Scale the ingredient list on the page if you are cooking for a different number.
How hard is it?
Medium.
How spicy is it?
No chilli.
What allergens should I watch?
This recipe is labelled for Milk, Wheat. Labels are informational — check the packets in your kitchen. This is not medical advice.
Does it fit a diet?
The published recipe is labelled Nut-free.
7 more questionsFewer questions
What does it cost to cook?
A bit special — about $16–28 USD, as a grocery budget for this recipe, not a restaurant price.
What equipment do I need?
Dutch oven, Tongs, Mixing bowl, Chef's knife, Saucepan.
How much salt do I put in?
The recipe lists Salt at 1½ tsp.
What can I use instead?
Kaşar cheese → Young cheddar, gruyère or parmesan. Parmesan is much saltier; cut the salt in the beğendi by half.
Any tips from this recipe?
The beğendi thickens as it stands. Loosen it with a splash of warm milk just before serving. The lamb is better made a day ahead. The beğendi is best made fresh. Beef chuck or shin works in place of lamb, with an extra half hour of simmering.
Can I prepare this ahead?
The lamb is better made a day ahead. The beğendi is best made fresh.
Can I use an air fryer?
This method is not written for an air fryer. The core technique on the page still applies.
Similar dishes
İskender kebab
İskender kebap
Thin slices of lamb döner on toasted pide, with tomato sauce, thick yoghurt and butter browned and poured over at the table. Bursa's lunch.
Medium

Smoked aubergine purée
Smoked aubergine purée from Turkey.
Easy

Baba ghanoush
بابا غنوج
Smoky eggplant, tahini and lemon — the mezze that should taste of fire, not of a steamed vegetable.
Easy

Moussaka
μουσακάς
Layered eggplant, spiced lamb and a thick béchamel — a Sunday tray, not a microwave yoghurt topping.
Medium


