Hünkâr beğendi

Slow-cooked lamb with tomato and green pepper, spooned onto a purée of flame-charred aubergine beaten into béchamel with cheese.

Recipe by I Want Some Food · Reviewed by the editorial kitchen.

Start cooking
Measurement system
Prep
30 min
Cook
1 hr 50 min
Rest
None
Total
2 hr 20 min
Difficulty
Medium
Spice
No chilli
Cost
A bit special$16–28 USD · indicative, not a store price

About

Hünkâr beğendi is two dishes on one plate. The first is a lamb stew, tas kebabı, cooked slowly with onion, tomato and green pepper until the meat is soft and the sauce is thick. The second is beğendi, a purée of aubergines charred over an open flame and beaten into a butter-and-flour white sauce with a little grated cheese. The smoke is the whole point: char the aubergines until the skins are black and collapsed, or the purée tastes of nothing. Spread the beğendi on the plate, leave a well in the middle and spoon the lamb into it.

What you'll need

20 ingredients. Tap each one once it's out on the bench.

0 of 20 ready
4 servings
  • Lamb
  • Beğendi

Ingredients

Lamb

Beğendi

Scaling multiplies the written quantities. Baking still prefers a scale.

Steps

  1. Step 1

    Heat the oil and butter in a heavy pot and brown the lamb in two batches over high heat, about 4 minutes a batch. Return all the meat, add the onion and cook 8 minutes until soft.

    16 min

  2. Step 2

    Add the garlic and tomato paste and fry for a minute, then the grated tomato, peppers, salt and pepper. Pour in hot water just to cover, put the lid on and simmer gently for 1½ hours, until the lamb is tender and the sauce is thick. Uncover for the last 15 minutes if it is thin.

    95 min

  3. Step 3

    While the lamb cooks, char the aubergines directly over a gas flame, turning with tongs, for 12 to 15 minutes until the skins are black all over and the flesh has collapsed. Without gas, put them under the hottest grill for about 30 minutes, turning, or on a barbecue.

    15 min

    Tip: Prick each aubergine once with a knife first so it cannot burst.

  4. Step 4

    Put them in a bowl, cover for 5 minutes, then peel off the skin and drop the flesh into the lemon water for 5 minutes to keep it pale. Squeeze it dry in your hands and chop it to a rough paste.

    12 min

  5. Step 5

    Melt the butter in a saucepan, stir in the flour and cook for 2 minutes without colouring. Whisk in the warm milk a little at a time and simmer 5 minutes until thick. Add the aubergine and beat over low heat for 5 minutes until smooth, then stir in the cheese, nutmeg and salt.

    15 min

  6. Step 6

    Spread the beğendi on warm plates, make a well in the centre and spoon in the lamb and its sauce. Scatter with parsley and serve at once.

    3 min

Nutrition

Per serving · estimate

Calories
978 kcal
Protein
58.2 g
Carbs
39.9 g
Fat
66.4 g
Saturated fat
30.6 g
Fibre
10.2 g
Sugar
21.2 g
Sodium
1862 mg

Calculated from canonical ingredient data (USDA FoodData Central averages and equivalent published tables). Estimates only.

Allergens

Informational only. Not a medical guarantee. Cross-contamination happens in real kitchens.

  • Milk
  • Wheat
  • Nut-free

Adapt this recipe

The original recipe stays as it is. Personal versions are labelled. Serving changes are simple maths.

Adaptations · 0 / 15 used. Resets 12 November.

Substitutions

  • Kaşar cheese → Young cheddar, gruyère or parmesan

    Parmesan is much saltier; cut the salt in the beğendi by half.

Tips

  • The beğendi thickens as it stands. Loosen it with a splash of warm milk just before serving.
  • The lamb is better made a day ahead. The beğendi is best made fresh.
  • Beef chuck or shin works in place of lamb, with an extra half hour of simmering.

History & culture

This is a dish of old Istanbul restaurants, the lokantas that cook for lunch on steam tables, and of home kitchens when the guests are worth the trouble. It is eaten in the colder months, with plain rice pilaf if anyone is still hungry. Aubergine is a Turkish obsession, and this is it in formal dress.

The name means 'the sultan liked it'. The story goes that it was first made in 1869 for Empress Eugénie of France, visiting Sultan Abdülaziz, and that she asked for the recipe. A French-style white sauce fits a 19th-century palace with French-leaning tastes, but smoked aubergine purées were in Ottoman cooking long before that visit.

Traditional — Turkish cooks use the long, slender aubergines called kemer patlıcan, which have fewer seeds; large globe aubergines work. Kaşar is a mild semi-hard cheese; young cheddar or gruyère are close enough.

Provenance: Editorial adaptation.

Questions about this recipe

Answers taken from this dish's times, amounts, swaps and tips.

How long does Hünkâr beğendi take?

2 hr 20 min all in — 30 min prep, 1 hr 50 min cook. Cook and rest follow the method. Leftover storage and optional extra waits are not included.

How many does it serve?

The recipe is written for 4 plates. Scale the ingredient list on the page if you are cooking for a different number.

How hard is it?

Medium.

How spicy is it?

No chilli.

What allergens should I watch?

This recipe is labelled for Milk, Wheat. Labels are informational — check the packets in your kitchen. This is not medical advice.

Does it fit a diet?

The published recipe is labelled Nut-free.

7 more questions
What does it cost to cook?

A bit special — about $16–28 USD, as a grocery budget for this recipe, not a restaurant price.

What equipment do I need?

Dutch oven, Tongs, Mixing bowl, Chef's knife, Saucepan.

How much salt do I put in?

The recipe lists Salt at 1½ tsp.

What can I use instead?

Kaşar cheese → Young cheddar, gruyère or parmesan. Parmesan is much saltier; cut the salt in the beğendi by half.

Any tips from this recipe?

The beğendi thickens as it stands. Loosen it with a splash of warm milk just before serving. The lamb is better made a day ahead. The beğendi is best made fresh. Beef chuck or shin works in place of lamb, with an extra half hour of simmering.

Can I prepare this ahead?

The lamb is better made a day ahead. The beğendi is best made fresh.

Can I use an air fryer?

This method is not written for an air fryer. The core technique on the page still applies.

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