Condiment
Doubanjiang
豆瓣酱
Also called chilli bean paste, Pixian douban
A salty fermented paste of broad beans and chilli — the seasoning that makes mapo tofu taste of Sichuan rather than of generic heat. It is not gochujang, and not a sweet 'chilli bean sauce' from a generic aisle.
Origin
Pixian, in Sichuan, is the place name on the jars worth buying. Ageing time is what you pay for.
Flavour
Salty, fermented, moderately hot, with a deep savoury funk that is more bean than fruit. It should not taste sweet.
How it is made
Broad beans are fermented, then combined with chilli and salt and aged, traditionally in the open air, until the paste darkens.
How to use it
Chop it if the beans are still in pieces, then fry it in oil over moderate heat until the oil turns red and the raw, salty smell cooks into something nutty — this is the step that makes or breaks mapo tofu. Too hot and it scorches; too little time and the dish tastes of uncooked paste. A tablespoon is a lot. If the oil does not stain, you used too little paste or too much oil.
Storage
Fridge after opening, lid clean. If it smells of rotting vegetables rather than fermented bean, bin it.
Recipes using it
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