Condiment
Fish sauce
Also called nam pla, nuoc mam
The amber liquid that runs off salted, fermented fish — usually anchovy. It is the savoury backbone of mainland Southeast Asia, not a garnish for people who 'like fish'.
Origin
Fermenting fish with salt is an old tropical and Mediterranean trick; Roman garum is a relative.
Flavour
Funky, salty, meaty. The smell in the bottle is louder than the taste in a finished dressing.
How it is made
Small fish are layered with salt and left to ferment for months. Premium first-press is for the table; cheaper grades are for the wok.
How to use it
Balance it with lime and palm sugar — that triangle is som tam, pad thai and a great deal of nước chấm. Add it to hot food so the raw edge cooks into savoury; a cold salad can take it raw if the lime is bright. A few drops in kimchi paste or a western stew is a secret, not a flavour you should be able to name. If the bottle tastes bitter, it is a bad bottle, not an authentic one.
Storage
Pantry, cap on. The aroma fades after a year or two; buy a size you will finish.
Recipes using it
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